I must admit that the first time I came to India and landed in Delhi I hated it.  I loved other parts of India that I visited but I hated Delhi! I told myself that I’ve seen everything in Delhi that I need to see and next time I come to India I won’t spend any time here.  Oh how wrong I was!  Not just about not spending time in Delhi but about hating it.  This time I’ll be in Delhi for over 2 months which is almost enough time to start to understand this megacity.

First a few facts about Delhi. Delhi has a total population of around 25 million.  That’s right…25 million!  It’s one of the largest cities in the world.  It’s also the most polluted city in the world.  Delhi is the capital of India.  There are diplomats and politicians and beggars and street kids. It is both an ancient city and a modern city.  It has been destroyed and rebuilt countless times.  It has been conquered and ruled by many including the Turks, Afghans, Mughals and the British.  There are ancient ruins, temples, tombs and monuments next to modern buildings and bustling streets.

My first time in Delhi, it conquered me. I was lost, confused, ripped off, harassed (I was literally felt up by a tuk tuk driver!) and haggled.  It seemed that no one would leave me alone!  I stuck out like a sore thumb. The funny thing is that not much of that has changed.  I still get lost, confused, harassed (this still makes me angry!) and haggled.  But, I’ve accepted it and instead of letting that conquer me, I’ve begun to conquer Delhi!  And here’s the thing, once I began to conquer Delhi I really started to enjoy it!  I’m proud now when I tell off the person who grabs my crotch or knocks me over with a cycle rickshaw (both true examples!).  I’m much better at haggling even though I’m sure I still get ripped off.  I take the metro and it no longer bothers me when an entire train car full of people just stare at me. Instead, I’m proud.  I’m not just surviving in Delhi, I’m really living in Delhi.  I commute each day to SBT on the metro, fighting my way through the busiest metro station. I’ve explored markets, temples, museums, monuments and neighborhoods on my own and each day I get a little bolder and a little stronger. I’ve found places where I can go and relax, I know where the best grocery stores are, I know the best restaurants for Indian food and the best ones for Western food. I’ve learned a lot while I’ve been here and for that Delhi will always have a special place in my heart.

Me at Bara Gumbad in Lodi Garden

Me at Lotus Temple

Me at Muhammad Shah Sayyids Tomb

Me at India Gate